Greek Guides

Notes and observations from various Greek wanderings

Crete

Greece’s wild, proud island.

The link between the Mediterranean and the Aegean. Europe, Asia and Africa.

The cradle of one of the most brilliant civilisations… and the land of guns, grudges and blood feuds.

Following the thread, like Theseus in the Minotaur’s labyrinth, through Crete. We travel from the beauty of Rethymno to Heraklion – lacking the same charm, but holding the key that opens the door to the discovery of Crete’s greatest treasures at Knossos.

Lasithia with its tragic leper’s island and hospitable monks. Chania with its towering White Mountains and plunging deep gorges.

Beaches of beauty. Men of honour and fierce beards. And a thousand glasses of raki….

Athens

Journeys around Greece’s capital, told through its music, its films, its football, its food…

From walking the Sacred Way, to standing at the end of Greece’s mainland at the Temple of Poseidon, to drinking in dark cafes in its searing bright centre, to visiting the final resting place of the great and the good of Greece.

A guide to the Hellas of Hellas.

Thrace

A period spent at the crossroads of Europe where Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey meet.

A land of Greeks, Muslims, Pomaki, Orthodox churches and mosques.

Old towns, new cities, mountain ranges, borders and seas.

I try and figure out this mysterious – not regularly visitied – north eastern part of Greece, where cultures mix, languages clash, rare animals roam. Where Orpheus conjured his musical magic and where much filoxenoi  –  hospitality to strangers – is to be found…

Travels in Northern Greece

An epic road trip around the north of the country.

From the Ionian Sea to the Bay of the Sacred Mountain in the Aegean. The mountainous strip of territory in central Greece to its northern frontier.

Remote villages, monasteries, wilderness; the Voreioelladites people, busy towns and great modern roads built on the history that once linked Byzantine cities and the glories of the ancient world.

Corfu

A longer version of an ‘insider’s guide to Corfu’ originally written for a UK publication.

This guide takes you to the more hidden, off-the-beaten-track areas of Corfu and recommends the best, least crowded, most ‘Corfiot’ tavernas and bars.

Plus pencil-portraits of the Corfiot people, their ways and the magical, musical, land of Kerkyra.