Articles

Central Macedonia

Central Macedonia

Along the road between Florina and Edessa, Western Macedonia turned quietly, imperceptibly, into Central Macedonia. Waiting somewhere for us within this new Greek state were beaches of naked abandonment, a forsaken camp for five thousand refugees, a city of Eastern foods, a preposterously grand Orthodox wedding, the sworn sighting of a miracle… For now though, […]

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Western Macedonia

Western Macedonia

We were aiming for the Grammos mountain. Driving through the north western part of Greece – the region of Western Macedonia. Like a low rumble, turning into a rolling boil, the ground rose up dramatically all around us. We stopped and asked a man at a precariously tilted petrol station the way to Aetomilitsa. The […]

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Epirus

Epirus

Part 1: Epirus
From the Ionian Sea to the Albanian Border

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Travels in Northern Greece

Travels in Northern Greece

While living on the island of Corfu we had crossed over the thin strip of sea one summer to take a tour round the northern part of the mainland of Greece. There was no real reason behind it, we were just travelling to see what we could see. Which is, of course, always the best […]

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Karagiozis and the musical island

Karagiozis and the musical island

Corfu is a strangely musical island. Throughout Greece, music always seems to be there, in the background: from the singing cicadas in their heat-cocooned trees; to the dark Greek blues of rebetiko music, full of pain and intoxication, in the winter months coming from the streets of steamy ouzeri bars; to the tragoudia tis douleias […]

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Greek Guides

Greek Guides

Describing the stage and halts, background and conclusions, of journeys through mainland Greece and the islands.

From the countryside to the buildings to the beaches; the customs and the habits; the best bars to have a quiet glass of tsiporou or personal favourite places to gorge on souvlaki. Living momentoes from wanderings around Greece. Hopefully they can be a guide for some other visitors. Or otherwise, just serve as a chance for reflection on the people and place, so as not to forget rambles around the country…

Greece observed.

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Lessons in Greek

Lessons in Greek

“M’ opoion daskalo kathiseis, tetoia grammata tha matheis” they say in Greece. Whichever teacher you learn with, such lessons you learn. The teacher I learnt with was a tiny, excitable, slightly mad, retired primary school teacher from the villages in the centre of deepest Corfu with the weather-beaten face of an old tree trunk. She […]

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Paradise Found?

Paradise Found?

We threaded our way out of the noise and confusion of the airport into the brilliant sunshine of Corfu. There they were: the tiers of multi-coloured houses, green shuttered, piled haphazardly. There was the bay beyond, blue and smooth as a plate. Here was our new life on the island, laid out before us like […]

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Corfu Quartet

Corfu Quartet

So now I was really married into this Greek world. We had left England for good – and already that old country had quickly been blown out like a candle in my mind.  Me and my new wife, my travelling companion – my Giristroula as they say here for a girl who likes to wander – […]

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On The Greek Election Trail

On The Greek Election Trail

Amongst the mother-in-law jokes so popular in the 70s and 80s, I don’t recall many about the wife’s mother being the returning parliamentary candidate for the coalition of the radical left in Greece. Nevertheless, this was the situation I had found myself in. Greece was facing a time of great political upheaval – and my […]

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