Articles

Central Macedonia

Central Macedonia

Along the road between Florina and Edessa in Greece’s far north, Western Macedonia turns quietly, imperceptibly, into Central Macedonia. Waiting somewhere for us within this new Greek state are beaches of naked abandonment, an forsaken camp for five thousand refugees, a city of Eastern foods, a preposterously grand Orthodox wedding, the sworn sighting of a […]

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Western Macedonia

Western Macedonia

We are aiming for the Grammos mountain. Driving through the tail end – north western – part of Greece, in the region of Western Macedonia. Like a low rumble, turning into a rolling boil, the ground rises up dramatically all around us.  We stop and ask a man at a precariously tilted petrol station the […]

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Epirus

Epirus

Part 1: Epirus
From the Ionian Sea to the Albanian Border

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Travels in Northern Greece

Travels in Northern Greece

Part 1 – Epirus From the Ionian Sea to the Albanian Border Part 2 – Western Macedonia Civil war mountains, Greek lakes, Electric cities Part 3 – Central Macedonia Refugee camps, hippy beaches and an Orthodox wedding Part 4 – North By NorthWest Greece Alexander, Philip, Socrates, Meteora, and the Roman Road Home

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Corfu

Corfu

Corfu. A peninsula snipped off when red hot and allowed to cool for thousands of years in the wide, blue surrounding Ionian Sea. And now crawling with tourists. And with all the accompanying commerce and tat tourists cry out for every summer. BUT there is still a secret Corfu. Or, if not a secret Corfu, […]

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Greek Guides

Greek Guides

Describing the stage and halts, background and conclusions, of journeys through mainland Greece and the islands.

From the countryside to the buildings to the beaches; the customs and the habits; the best bars to have a quiet glass of tsiporou or personal favourite places to gorge on souvlaki. Living momentoes from wanderings around Greece. Hopefully they can be a guide for some other visitors. Or otherwise, just serve as a chance for reflection on the people and place, so as not to forget rambles around the country…

Greece observed.

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Lessons in Greek

Lessons in Greek

“M’ opoion daskalo kathiseis, tetoia grammata tha matheis” they say in Greece. Whichever teacher you learn with, such lessons you learn.   And the teacher I learnt with was a tiny, excitable, slightly mad, retired primary school teacher from the villages in deepest Corfu, with the weather-beaten face of an old tree trunk. She gave […]

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Karagiozis and the musical island

Karagiozis and the musical island

Corfu is a strangely musical island. Throughout Greece, music always seems to be there, in the background: from the singing cicadas in their heat cocooned trees; to the dark Greek blues, full of pain and intoxication, of rebetiko music in the winter months coming from the streets of steamy ouzeri bars; to the tragoudia tis […]

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Paradise Found?

Paradise Found?

We threaded our way out of the noise and confusion of the airport into the brilliant sunshine of Corfu. There they were: the tiers of multi-coloured houses, green shuttered, piled haphazardly. There was the bay beyond, blue and smooth as a plate. Here was our new life, on the island of Kerkyra. Word had been […]

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Corfu Quartet

Corfu Quartet

Britain is blown out like a candle and the blue really begins as we head towards a new life on the island of Corfu.

But what is lying in store for us on this extraordinary Ionian archipelago? What do the people of Corfu really do here throughout the whole year when the tourists aren’t looking? And can man-made Corfu and the tempestuous Corfiots ever live up to the incredible nature that surrounds them here in the ‘Garden of Greece’?

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