Articles

Here is Greece

Here is Greece

“Domates, patates, karekles…” The man’s voice, thick with dust and heat and cigarettes, plagued me every morning. “Tomatoes, potatoes, chairs…” A bizarre collection of things to sell, but wherever you go in Greece there will be a broken-down old van, slowly doing the rounds on the tight Greek streets with this foul voice coming through […]

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Paradise Forgone!

Paradise Forgone!

01.06.2016 Nikos has lost his kafeneo. Never asking a single customer to pay their bill, drinking through his own stock night after night…it seems these weren’t great business ideas. The warped, faded, rose-coloured doors have now been bolted. The bar is dead. Nikos has found work in Hector’s old bakery instead. He works with small […]

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Ο Μπελογιάννης και το ελληνικό χωριό

Ο Μπελογιάννης και το ελληνικό χωριό

Ο αστυνομικός γύρισε προς τον συνάδελφό του. Είχε μια έκφραση ανησυχίας. «Πραγματικά χάσαμε τον έλεγχο, έτσι δεν είναι, Γιάννη;» Ο Γιάννης με μία ταλαιπωρημένη στολή αστυνομικού κοίταξε τα πλήθη που βρίσκονταν πάνω στα πεζοδρόμια, κυκλώνοντας τον πρωθυπουργό της Ελλάδας, στριμώχνοντάς τον, ακουμπώντας τον, σπρώχνοντάς τον προς τον δρόμο. «Ναι… Νομίζω ότι μάλλον τον χάσαμε…» Ο […]

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Belogiannis and the Greek Village

Belogiannis and the Greek Village

The first policeman turned to his colleague. He wore a worried expression. “We’ve really lost this, haven’t we Gianni?” Giannis in his shabby policeman’s uniform looked round at the crowds spilling over the pavements, crowding round the Prime Minister of Greece, pushing at him, manhandling him, jostling him along the street. “Yes…” he squinted. “I […]

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Messenia, Mani & Maleas

Messenia, Mani & Maleas

Every slipped step set off a small landslide of stones falling backwards, cascading down the slope behind us as we unsteadily climbed up the Taygetos mountain range in the Mani. The bare, empty, views here – whichever way we looked – trembled in the heat. Just the one lone, loyal, tree remained on the mountain […]

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In Arcadia

In Arcadia

Giristroula’s grandfather was brought down the outside stone stairs from the first floor. At the bottom, a crowd of mourners stood in the bare garden watching as he was carried along. Men from his local kafeneo in the one old suit they owned, the black scarfed old women who used to buy their currents and […]

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Under The Ditch

Under The Ditch

We sailed right through the streets of Poros, as I knew we would. I was ready for it. I’d taken up position on top of the bridge of the ship and watched as we chugged along the roadside of Poros: keeping pace with the walkers below, the old men on their mopeds, a dog trotting alongside […]

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Travels in Southern Greece

Travels in Southern Greece

We had returned from Crete, but just couldn’t seem to settle back in Athens. The normal world of streets and offices and cars and shops just didn’t feel right. The Attic light seemed a dull glow. We decided to take another journey, just as we had a few years before in northern Greece. This time […]

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To The End

To The End

One train an hour. The small train station in Beccles has one train an hour. We want to run down the plump buttock of Britain, down the East Anglian coast through to south Suffolk. The trains aren’t helping us though. Giristroula and I pad about this small station, strong sunshine beating over the old fashioned […]

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To Lincoln And Norfolk

To Lincoln And Norfolk

Lincolnshire had slid past as we cycled along. The view had been endless over the green sea-flat land. The whole of the county seemed pretty much just three-quarters sky. We now descended the Lindum Road though – the old Roman road that if we stayed on it long enough would take us down Emperor Nero’s […]

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